Features & Testimonials

Get a sense of Coach Sjong’s coaching style and personality from past interviews & articles.

PODCASTS

  • The Climbing Nugget

    June 2024

    How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster & Float on the wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’

    Listen

  • The RunOut

    June 2024

    Sensei and Sensibility: Climb Smarter with Justen Sjong

    Listen

  • The Struggle Climbing Show

    April 2024

    How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster & Float on the wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’

    Listen

  • Cedar Wright | YouTube Channel

    April 2020

    Climb Better, Climb Harder, Interview with Professional Climbing Coach Justen Sjong

    Watch

  • KAYA Podcast

    May 2020

    What is Athletic Empathy? with Tonde Katiyo

    Watch

  • The Power Company

    March 2017

    Ego, Partnerships, and Awareness with Justen Sjong

    Listen

  • Training Beta

    August 2015

    A Talk with Justen Sjong

    Listen

ARTICLES

  • James Lucas

    February 2020

    The Head Game

    Read

  • Evening Sends

    Feb 2018

    No Time to Train: Coaching from The Climbing Sensei

    Read

  • Climbing Magazine

    October 2017

    Interview: Coach Justen “The Sensei” Sjong on His Training Philosophy

    Read

  • Evening Sends

    November 2015

    Training with Justen Sjong, Part 2

    Read

  • The Climbing Journal

    September 2013

    Justen Sjong Keeps The Beat

    Read

  • Evening Sends

    January 2012

    Training with Justen Sjong, Part 1

    Read

TESTIMONIALS

  • “Justen’s coaching and support extended beyond the years of my youth as well as the physical side of the sport. His emphasis on mindset and motivation was ahead of its time and enabled me to transition from a successful competitive climber to a passionate and versatile outdoor climber. He struck the balance of encouraging the tough questions to be asked while still emphasizing enjoyment as a critical component to success. I wouldn’t be the person let alone the athlete I am today without his guidance.“

    Emily Harrington - Professional Climber

  • "Justen listened to my goals (as a regular person with a job and interests outside of climbing), watched me climb to point out strengths and areas for improvement, gave very specific mental and technical areas for me to focus on that realistically fit into my life, and I have watched myself transform over the past year and a half, send things I didn’t think would be possible for me, and most importantly, have more FUN while climbing! He has a unique ability to be direct about weaknesses and always kind/encouraging at the same time. I could not have imagined how much I would improve with each session and grateful to have Justen in my corner! "

    Valerie Paulson - Seasonal In-Person Coaching

  • "I worked with Justen for several years during my youth competition career. Throughout this time, Justen significantly impacted my mental approach towards competition climbing. I always struggled with the mental side of comp climbing, but over the course of many practices, Justen was able to help me better understand how to handle those tricky moments. Not only did we have philosophical conversions about what it was like to feel uncomfortable in a comp setting, he also reinforced these mental tactics through drills. Specifically speaking, he taught me how to manage my breath work and become a more aware version of myself on and off the wall. To this day, I still use the skills and tactics that Justen instilled in me. Most importantly, he was very adaptable and able to craft an effective training experience personalized for me."

    Tanner Bauer - Next Gen Crusher

  • "What an awesome experience it was having Justen hanging on a fixed line, next to me and coaching me through the crux of my my hardest, trad climb to date, resulting in unexpected success and fearless enjoyment of the process. Just knowing I wasn’t up there alone with my discouraging thoughts, questioning every move and placement, but rather up there with a trusted and decisive mentor suddenly with endless encouragement and experience to silence out any negativity. A truly elevated experience I take with me on every climb now that I know what’s possible. "

    Brett Stensland - Outdoor Coaching

  • "Justen came into my life at a turning point in my climbing career. As a competitive coach, he offered mental perspectives with a path I hadn’t seen from any teacher yet. He spurred my competition climbing along during those days, but I still utilize his mental techniques in a much wider array of climbing performance."

    Chris Deuto - Next Gen Crusher

  • "The post session skills evaluation from Justen was incredibly helpful in boosting my confidence. By clearly identifying my strengths and pinpointing areas that need improvement, it gave me a focused roadmap on where to direct my efforts. This clarity not only reassured me about my current abilities but also provided actionable insights, making my goals feel more achievable and within reach. Justen’s mentorship has been an integral part of my most meaningful ascents. "

    Sam Chalkley - In-Person Skills Evaluation

  • "Initially, remote coaching wasn't all that appealing to me. I was worried that I wouldn't get the same technical feedback that one experiences with 1 on 1 coaching. Being 1500 miles away with a demanding job also may not of been the right atmosphere for a proper coaching plan. Working with Justen remotely proved all that wrong. He's truly a great coach who enabled the best possible experience for me. All my videos were broken down with great detail, insightful critiquing and a sound technical strategy for future workouts. I'd recommend the sensei to anyone looking to up their climbing and enjoy it at the same time."

    Sean Branch - Remote Coaching

  • "He has helped me dial in my mental game."

    Alex Puccio - Professional Climber

  • "I worked with Justen around my competition goals as a youth climber. His ability to point out and help me see the nuance of movement helped me grow and pushed me to be the climber I am today. He was very impactful in helping me notice how my body moves on the wall and how small changes can have a big impact on my overall climbing and confidence. I still think about and use his teachings today in all aspects of my climbing"

    Campbell Sarinopolous - Next Gen Crusher

  • "My wife and I decided to do the Remote Skill Evaluation as a fun way to share a different kind of climbing experience. While our expectations were quite high due to Justen’s reputation as a coach, we were blown away by the detail of the remote evaluation and the nuances that he picked up from video analysis. Justen identified different priorities for each of us to work on, which made a lot of sense given our very different climbing styles. He also provided clear avenues for us to address both strengths and weaknesses in our climbing. From taking and submitting videos, receiving evaluations, and discussing our priorities with Justen, we had a great overall experience. Without a doubt we are climbing better and are having more fun because of it."

    Alto Family - Remote Skills Evaluation


BETA VIDEOS